What: Hit&Mrs, Bangsar, KL
When: February 2013
Food: Brunch
Rating: 8/10
Breakfast is, let’s be honest here, sacred.
If you are going to the trouble of leaving your bed, getting dressed, and
driving to a restaurant before your stomach can enjoy any morning satisfaction,
you want your meal to be something a) reassuringly familiar and b) tasty. No
one wants foie gras on toast, or wagyu beef sautéed in shallots; no no,
breakfast is about filling, comforting, understandable staples.
| Coffee tastes better in a cup and saucer... |
| Chef Marshad Pinot - magician of gastronomy |
Thankfully, Chef Marshad Pinot, despite
possessing an extraordinary creative mind and a touch of magic with his dishes
at Hit&Mrs (see my previous post), understands the importance and sanctity of
the B-meal, and has delivered a brunch menu that your stomach will be delighted
with. “I’m not reinventing anything here,” he says fervently, as we stand in
the sun-dappled courtyard of the shophouse-converted restaurant on a lazy
Saturday morning, “I’m just playing with flavour combinations. With the brunch
menu, I want it to be things people know and like.”
| More "brunchy" options coming soon |
It may be known as the Brunch menu, but the
list at H&M is primarily breakfast options (at the moment anyway, more
brunch options coming soon), and with eight choices ranging from the healthy
(salads, yoghurt with berries) to the indulgent (fry up), from the classy
(salmon with eggs) to the experimental (63 degrees C egg foillandaise), there
is plenty to ensure that decision to leave your bed on an empty stomach was
worth making.
H&M’s environment lends itself to the
lazy breakfast: the small shophouse yawns into life on a weekend morning, and
local residents begin to move about this cute neighbourhood.
| Fresh flowers add a touch of colour |
| Watch the busy bees at work |
Inside the
restaurant, the sun creeps across the open courtyard, dabbling the trickling
water feature and the scrubby trees in brilliant sunlight, while a comforting
breeze flows into the open but cool eating area, where the only noises to
complement your murmurings are the chop and whizz of the chefs at work behind
the open kitchen counter. Time is left outside with your car, and the morning
stretches away luxuriously like a cup of tea without a bottom.
| Hot and cold thirst quenchers |
Drinks are simple and satisfying – fresh
juices (RM12) and piping, frothy coffees (RM8), while teas (RM12) and even teh tarik are available for a breakfast
tipple. Arriving in charming little kopitiam
style cups and saucers and satisfying the senses, the coffees could not have
been the better way to start the day.
They didn’t manage to hold our attention
for long though, as Chef Marshad swiftly began to hit us with food that begged
to be photographed from every angle. While the boys stared longing at the
edible art pieces and rubbed their rumbling tummies, Monica (The Yum List) and
I snapped away like paparazzi at the Oscars.
| Quinoa meets Granola to create my new favourite breakfast! |
First on the red carpet was the Quinoa,
Granola (RM25), a healthy jumble that made us ooo in pleasure at the mere sight
of the granules of quinoa and crunchy granola, dotted with dried fruit and
blobbed with meltingly soft fresh yoghurt, strawberries, and a drizzle of
Australian honey.
| Crunchy, sweet, and sloppy...and healthy! |
Light, crunchy, healthy, and refreshing,
this is a classic breakfast item done with a flourish, and the addition of
crunchy, nutty quinoa is a charming one. Diners also have the option of
ordering this dish with avocado puree and blueberry ice cream rather than the
strawberries and yoghurt combo....mmmmm..a reason to go back!
| Simple yet so satisfying |
But we couldn’t linger on the granola
because a leg was appearing out of a black limo and here was the fry up,
glistening with freshly crisped brown-ness and calling out for someone to
transport it into a belly. Two Eggs on Sourdough Toast, Slow-Roasted Tomatoes,
Buttered Mushrooms, and Beef Bacon (RM35) are piled on a platter and look
utterly divine, promising traditional home comfort delivered to restaurant standard.
Never have I eaten such enjoyable beef bacon – I would’ve believed it was pork!
– and the sweet mushy tomatoes, the slippery, peppery mushrooms, the wobbly
worthy eggs, and the slice of buttered sourdough came together in a plate that
will always beat a lie-in, hands down!
| Colourful combo of eggs, salmon, and inky bread |
Another classic outfit stepped into the
spotlight and flashed a hint of Chef’s prestidigitation: Scrambled Egg, Home
Cured Salmon, Squid Ink Foccacia (RM35), which dazzles with a trio of yellow,
pink, and black and offers up some of the creamiest, sloppiest eggs you are
likely to slurp. The ooze of eggs is just perfect for the spongy-soft hunks of atramentous bread to mop up, while the salmon refreshes the palate.
The final arrival – always one to make the
dramatic late appearance – was the winning dish of French toast, but this time donning
an outfit that just screamed of glamour and made jaws drop in admiration.
| Italy meets France in the Panna French Toast |
The
buttery, spongy Italian loaf panettone
is egged up and fried for this version of Panna French Toast (RM25), accompanied
by the smallest, sweetest bananas the market can offer up (pisang emas), drizzled with syrup, and finished with a blob of vanilla-infused,
creamy Chantilly for a decadent flourish to a fine dish.
| "Come back and eat me again soon!" |
It was normal fare, but then it
wasn’t...familiar food, but yet so much better than you could ever hope to make
it...“Simple plus plus..” is how I would describe this rather jammy brunch menu.
The words list the dishes you know you like and you know you want, while the
live counterparts offer up quality ingredients presented with style,
creativity, and careful attention to taste and textural combinations.
You can almost sense Chef Marshad straining
at the limits of his breakfast options – how he longs to soar into the world of
his artistic edible masterpieces that make his dinner menu something
extraordinary! But he has made the right choice: breakfast needs to be
reassuringly reliable, and at H&M you could be reassured of a meal that
will keep you smiling all weekend long.
Hit&Mrs
15 Lorong Kurau
Taman Weng Lock
Bangsar
59000 Kuala Lumpur
03.2282 3571
www.thebiggroup.co
Open: Tuesday-Sunday 5pm-1am,
Saturday-Sunday 11am-2.30pm
Pork-free
| Upstairs bar area |
Watch this space for a multi-course lunch
menu and a bar menu – Chef Marshad is not finished yet!
scrambled eggs, smoked salmon, squid ink foccacia ... now that's a plate that makes waking up before noon on a weekend worth it! :D
ReplyDeleteI agree, coffee does taste better in a cup and saucer.
ReplyDeleteVery sexy looking breakkie spread. That Salmon, Scrambled Rgg and Squid Ink Foccacia is definitely something special. Oh, I love the way you write! :)
ReplyDeleteThanks Kelly! Food this good seems to demand some good words, hehe :)
Deletegood spread. i like the quinoa and granola mix. lovely brekkie idea.
ReplyDeleteThese meals are such a delight! It’s clear to me that Chef Marshad wants to keep things simple, and that is inherent in his restaurant and the food that he serves. For me, having breakfast is really a fragile moment. That’s why you have to eat dishes that aren’t strong to the palate. However, taste and visual presentation should not be overlooked. H&M seems to do a perfect job in creating a balance between those two factors. Great review, by the way!
ReplyDelete